The Lazy Lions of Lemek

May 2016 – Saruni Mara & Saruni Wild Camps, Masai Mara, Kenya

Sometimes you need a break to recharge the batteries and refocus your energy. This was a really last-minute trip – planned and booked on Thursday – and the very next morning, we were off to the Mara for the first time this year. There was no goal or plan for this trip – we needed to get away for a few nights.

Torrential rains poured down in Nairobi on Thursday evening, causing lots of flooding and traffic jams. This was going to be a real black-cotton safari. We flew out of Nairobi Wilson, and we had our last chance to say goodbye to our fallen wildlife, as Kenya’s largest Ivory Burn was underway in Nairobi National Park. We flew over the Mara conservancies, and the landscape below was lush and green – something we hadn’t seen in a long time. Landing at Mara North Airstrip, Dickson, our guide greeted us, and we made our way up to Saruni Mara, way up north in the Aitong Hills. This is about a far north as you get in the Mara ecosystem.

Along the way, we came across some elephants, relaxing in a patch of flooded evergreen bushes, and wallowing in the small pools the rains had created. Nearby, in the tall grasses, we came upon the first of our lazy lions – two lionesses and a male, sleeping in the tall grass and under shaded bushes. We would have missed them altogether were it not for Dicksons’ well-trained eyes. When we returned in the evening, they had moved a few meters forward, but nothing much had changed. This was to be the theme of the weekend. We’d find lions out in the open, up on rocky ridges, in the bushes – but rarely did we find them moving.

Saruni Mara was perfect for us to recharge our batteries. After a hectic few months, the peace and tranquility was much needed. With massive cottage rooms, large decks and a luxurious atmosphere, we were off to a great start. The food was incredible – actually the best Italian food that we’ve had in a while. It is amazing how such great food, from home made pastas to three course dinners, can be cooked in such a simple kitchen.

We went out on our afternoon game drive and the weather was rapidly changing. As we continued on, the skies went dark, the sun peered through the black clouds, and we settled in for a spectacular sunset. All around us, drama filled the skies as the dark purple storms gave way to a clear sunset of orange and pink hues. It was one of the most dramatic skies I’ve seen.

Although it didn’t rain heavily around the lodge, it poured up in the hills, and by morning, small streams were flowing down the hills and every track was flooded. As we searched the riverine forest for elusive leopards, we also had to plan our lugga crossing. These dry, seasonal streams are normally easy to cross. Now they had turned into torrential rivers, and crossing became a challenge on its own.

Eventually, at the far end of the conservancy, we found the most stable crossing point – a rickety bridge overflowing with water – and we worked our way back across the flooded plains. Our famously lazy lions had moved overnight, but when we caught up to them, they were resting again, in thick leleshwa bushes. Along the way, we came across an elephant family crossing the plains, and Dickson positioned the car perfectly ahead of them. Slowly the procession came right up to us and passed a few meters in front of the car.

The afternoon was relatively uneventful, as we decided to check out the Ol Chorro Rhino Sanctuary, since it was near the to camp. The sanctuary currently takes care of two rescued white rhinos, and they’re easily approachable on foot. It’s definitely worth a visit if you’re in the area, although I’m not sure I’d go specifically to see them if we were further south.

This morning, we were off to a slow start and had breakfast in camp. We got ready for our move to Saruni Wild, a smaller mobile camp setup, which offers a more natural bush experience to contrast the luxury of Saruni Mara. The camp was a few kilometers away, bordering the Mara North & Lemek Conservancies, and we decided to take a full morning game drive, arriving at camp in time for lunch. Saruni Wild is exactly what the name appears to be – ‘wild’. It is the smallest camp in the Mara with only three tents and we were the only ones there for the next two nights. Unfenced, and hidden on the edge of the tall grass plains, it was the perfect balance to Saruni Mara’s luxuries.

On our morning drive into camp, we came across a lone lioness and spent most of the morning with her. Although she wasn’t active, she did raise her head a few times, as animals passed in the distance, which is more than I can say for the other lions! We thought we heard some sounds in the leleshwa bushes and thought it may be her cubs. We searched, but even at a short distance, it’s hard to see anything inside the thick bushes.

The afternoon was a full-on lion safari. Up on a rocky hill, we came across most of the Olngoswa Pride, one of the largest prides in the Mara. Out of 28, we saw 19 lions lazing on the hill. Only a few lifted their heads to see us! About a kilometer away, a lone lioness was not as full or lazy. She was ready for dinner and she kept constantly scanning the area for prey. With no prey in sight, she began moving and disappeared out of view. Close by, there was another pride with cubs, and we spent the rest of the evening with them, until the light faded.

Early this morning, we caught up with the lionesses and cubs from the night before. The females attempted a half-hearted hunt and were unsuccessful. We then drove south towards the border of Mara North and the Mara Triangle for breakfast. The river was flowing in full force, and with all the rapids, even the hippos were having a tough time in the water. After breakfast we came across three cheetahs – a mother and two older cubs – hiding the in the long grass. Other highlights of the morning were a crown crane mating dance, and a plover attacking a secretary bird, as she guarded her nest.

In the afternoon, we headed out from Saruni Wild with clear skies above us. Within minutes, the clouds rolled in and the heavens opened up. Pelted with rain, we closed up the sides of the Land Cruiser. The roads started flooding, but Dickson’s determined to continue on. We reached a familiar lugga crossing, which was easily crossed earlier in the day – it had turned into raging rapids. At that point, we decided to head back, slipping and sliding the whole way back on the black cotton roads.

Our final day was slow-paced, and we headed back to the airstrip, ready to get back to the hectic pace of Nairobi. The combination of Saruni Mara and Saruni Wild was perfect – a few nights in luxury cottages and a few nights in the simple tents in the wilderness. The rainy month of May makes wildlife viewing a little difficult, but on the plus side, most camps are closed and its very quiet. In all, we only saw a few other vehicles and at most of our sightings, we were the only ones around. It felt like a private Mara experience – a complete contrast to the thousands of vehicles that would be jostling for the wildebeest crossing in a few months.