August 2012 – Sala’s Camp, Masai Mara, Kenya

In August 2012, with the wildebeest migration making its way into the Mara, we headed to Sala’s Camp, near the border with Tanzania on the Sand River.

The camp directions given to us involved a lot of natural features – turn right at this hill, left at this tree. So it came to be that at one junction near the camp, we were perched on higher ground searching for signs of a camp nearby. No one bothered to look the bush right next to us until we started moving again – a pride of lions were seeking shelter from the searing midday sun. If it weren’t for a quick glance back from Phera, we would have missed them! Fortunately for us, the camp was only a few hundred meters away, and the afternoon was spent with the lions.

Having only 2 nights to spare, and with the wildebeest herds crossing the Mara River, it was a pretty singular affair as we headed to the river. The queues of wildebeest were building up, so we found a good spot and waited. On the riverbanks, the crocodiles were full, watching as wildebeest carcasses floated by them. Finally, the crossing began. Pressure from the back of the herd pushed forward and the wildebeest (and some zebra) took the plunge. This lasted only a few moments as reckless minibus driver drove straight through the queue and the wildebeest scattered. The crossing came to an abrupt end.

On the way back to camp for lunch, we came upon a leopard, out in an open area between the riverine forests. Her head darted in and out of the ground several times. At a distance, it was hard to see what was happening. On her last dive, her head came back up with a warthog piglet in her mouth. She was searching the burrows for a quick snack.